3/16/2023 0 Comments D60 liveview![]() ![]() Set this option (again, see your manual for the specific activation method) and areas of overexposure will blink in the playback image. Here's something you might want to use in connection with the histogram: the highlight overexposure warning. ![]() The remedy? You can increase your shutter speed, close down aperture or lower your ISO to correct overexposure the opposite settings will serve to correct an underexposure. The histogram will instantly reveal the situation: a heavy concentration at the left side of the graph means the image is underexposed and you've lost detail in the shadow areas a heavy concentration at the right means your highlights may be blown out. Overexposure means lack of detail in the highlights underexposure, loss of detail in the shadows. In the majority of instances, your camera's meter will accurately and precisely set the correct exposure for the scene.īut you should check the histogram when a scene's lighting is especially tricky when there are areas of deep shadow and bright light in the same scene and when you're going to take a series of images in the same setting and want to be sure your exposure is right on target.Ī glance at the histogram will tell you if parts of your photo are over- or underexposed. Few if any photographers look at the histogram for each and every photo they take. The first thing to realize, though, is that it's not always necessary to use the histogram. But why is it an important, fundamental tool of digital photography? Simply because your understanding of the histogram will tell you if it's necessary to adjust your exposure, and it will indicate how to make that adjustment. You can choose to have the histogram appear on the camera's LCD along with the playback display of your photo (see your Nikon camera's manual for the exact procedure). You might think of it this way: a light meter reads the scene before you take the photo the histogram analyzes the photo you've just taken. The histogram depicts the range of tones in an image from the darkest on the left of the graph (0 in digital terms) to the lightest on the right side (255 in digital terms). Those of you who plan to tether the 60D to your computer and shoot remotely, I still highly recommend the Quick AF mode…mostly due to it’s accuracy over Live AF mode.The histogram is a graphic representation of the tonal range in a photograph, and its analysis of the image's tonal range provides a precise check on exposure. I tried shooting everything from macro subjects to portraits and the Quick AF mode was much faster and more accurate than either of the Live AF modes (regular/face detection). Having experimented with each of these AF modes, I can tell you that the Quick AF mode is well worth the short interruption that occurs when focusing on your subject. Once focus has been achieved, the mirror will go back up and the live view image on the LCD will be restored. When you half-press the shutter button, the mirror will go down while the 60D is focusing. The problem with this mode is that it momentarily interrupts the live view image on the LCD screen. This means that focusing is both quick and accurate. This mode uses the dedicated AF sensor instead of the image sensor. To be honest, this mode was even slower that regular Live AF mode. It also had problems recognizing faces if the person’s head was tilted or angled. The AF had a hard time locking focus with faces that were too small or too large in the frame. This mode acts much like regular Live mode AF, except for the fact that it searches for faces. If the focus is achieved the focus point will turn green, if not it will turn orange. You can half-press the shutter button to lock focus and then re-compose the shot for better framing. When shooting in Live mode, you’ll see an AF point in the middle of the screen. ![]() This means that focusing is not only slower than regular AF, but it’s also less accurate. In this mode, the image sensor is used to determine focus. I spent a few days testing this mode and would like to share my findings with you… In the 60D manual, Canon even states that this mode is meant for subjects that don’t move. So slow that most people abandon it after giving it a test drive. The problem with Live View mode is that focusing is ridiculously slow. With the flip out and rotating LCD screen, this mode is great for shooting subjects low to the ground, above your head and even self portraits. Live View allows you to compose the photograph on your LCD rather than through the viewfinder. Howdy friends! The Canon 60D comes equipped with Live View mode which is extremely helpful for beginners upgrading from a compact camera. Canon 60D: AF Modes for Live View Shooting ![]()
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